Traveling to Venice in February by Cearr Creative
Traveling to Venice in February by Cearr Creative
From creative writer and creator, Sarah Orman of C E Á R R writes about her recent trip to Venice, Italy moments before COVID left many of us anchored, unable to travel.
At the end of February, when the world began spiraling into unfathomable chaos and confusion, I found myself on vacation in a silent city, one that ordinarily buzzes with life. What now feels like a lifetime ago, I was wandering the quiet streets of Venice in awe. The seriousness of the pandemic was admittedly an afterthought and I selfishly raptured in classic Venetian scenes that would typically be overrun with tourists.
It first occurred to me that Venice was unusually calm shortly after I arrived. As my water taxi bound for the floating city slowed to a crawl on approaching the famed Rialto Bridge, I couldn’t help but wonder where the crowds were. Where were the tourists capturing the Grand Canal in all its sunset glory?
I briefly checked into my hotel directly opposite the Basilica di Santa Maria before heading out on foot to catch the fading light at the Piazza San Marco. It was then I began to realize things were far from normal. Having previously visited Venice in early January, I knew Italy’s jewel on the lagoon never really slowed, even during the off-season. That afternoon, however, St Mark’s Square was beginning to show signs of the tumult that was to come.
Having planned my getaway to coincide with the city’s Carnival celebrations, I was deeply disappointed to learn on arrival that all of the usual fanfare had been canceled due to COVID. I had longed to see Italians wearing traditional costumes and flamboyant masks. What I hadn’t bargained on, however, was discovering people wearing a different type of face covering. On every pharmacy door, there were handwritten notes scribbled in a panicked hurry. “No masks. Sold out,” read the message in multiple languages, while inside the elite boutiques on the city's luxury shopping streets, staff wore jet black face coverings and passers-by quietly went about their business in facade. It all felt rather strange and I confess to suppressing a smile at a popular clothing store whose advertising campaign for Carnival season read, “beyond the mask.”
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Later that evening I found myself enjoying an aperitivo before dinner at a small, traditional bacaro hidden down a narrow passage. The friendly owner beckoned me to take a seat at the bar and despite our inability to communicate, she served me a spritz with a warm and welcoming smile. Outside in the alleyway, four locals chatted animatedly, negronis in hand. For a brief moment, any fear associated with the coronavirus outbreak was gone. A few doors down at dinner all was quite normal and by the time I'd finished enjoying a classic Venetian feast complete with liquid libations, I'd forgotten the surrealness of that first afternoon. I returned to the hotel via the main lagoon waterfront passing the Bridge of Sighs, the majestic Doge’s Palace, and Saint Mark’s Basilica. As quickly as it had been omitted from my mind, however, reality returned. The city was eerily quiet. As I wandered leisurely back to base that night, I counted on one hand the number of people I passed in St Mark’s Square. In doing so, I began to understand the severity of the situation. Venice was silent.
My days passed enjoying the city’s sights despite the reserved stillness. Empty gondolas drifted along quiet canals, desolate outdoor tables remained unoccupied despite the spring-like weather, and ordinarily busy waterways slowed to a never before seen pace. The city was somber, but with it came a captivating beauty I felt fortunate to experience, including an intimate gathering of Carnival celebrants enjoying Prosecco together in the opulent Caffé Florian. I quickly began to appreciate just how lucky I was as the peculiar situation fast unraveled into heartbreaking truth. Everyone I conversed with was scared. Despite the impending fear, however, they were warm, sincere, and overwhelmingly hospitable.
On my last afternoon, the seriousness of it all imploded on me as I overheard a couple in a deep discussion concerning how they were going to get home. My phone buzzed incessantly that day until I finally switched it to flight mode on departure; a combination of updates from my parents who had said goodbye first thing that morning and friends concerned about my whereabouts.
On the flight home, I felt numb. Part of me was filled with wonder having spent five magical days experiencing Venice like never before, yet equally, my heart ached for the locals I’d interacted with. Little did I know then the horror that would continue to unfold in the days and weeks following my return.
Today, there is a very different story to tell. Thousands have perished and despite the romantic scenes of singing and camaraderie that gave Italy’s cities, towns, and villages hope during the pandemic, my heart is heavy for this place and its people who have suffered so much. I’ll forever remember this visit with mixed emotions. Selfishly, it was perhaps one of the most wonderful vacations I’ve ever had. Despite the uncertainty, the imminent fear, and the incomprehensible tragedy, the allure and charm of Venice prevailed.
Credits:
Story and Photos by Sarah Orman of C E Á R R
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